I think I have 15 of those flashlights now. Several reds for astronomy, several whites stashed around in cars and backpacks, a few uv, and a blue and green because why not. My EDC is an olight i1r on my keychain since it’s smaller, rechargeable, and only needed randomly, but those compact AA lights are so convenient either when packing for an exact activity or using in an emergency. I store them with rechargeable batteries but like that I can use a standard battery on the fly too, if needed.
For everyone else, they’re generic flashlights I find on ebay. The head is focusable (o-ring slider) from a 60+° circle with smooth output down to some very tight beam that projects the grid lines of the LED chip - and a hair above that focus you can project just the lead wire. Half-pressing the tail button switches between bright/medium/dim/strobe.
Yeah we use them here to check for print errors. The high CRI is nice but unnecessary. What’s good is how smooth the diffusion is! Very good for checking ink adhesion in our films. I love how the LED shape is projected. 😁. I found out about the strobe by accident.
Nice mini champ, im a big fan of the gerber dime when i dont carry my centerdrive (and yes im the one who asked if it was a leatherman crunch on C/machinist)
Against the Storm. Picked it up way back in early access and kind of thought it sucked. Saw some people talk about it recently and decided to give it another go, and it doesn’t suck anymore! I suck at it, having lost every round, but I keep going back in, so I guess I like it now.
It’s pretty common for Xbox controllers to get stick drift especially if they are older. Controllers that use “Hall effect” sensors for the joysticks apparently don’t have this issue but I am not sure there are any affordable ones I can recommend. I am not sure how common it is for Xbox controllers to just have a stick straight up die, that sounds much more unusual and maybe like something that is more prone to happen with a third party controller?
I have never done it but you can replace just the joystick part on the controller and that may be a cheaper route.
Also, if you are playing on a computer, software such as steam will let you define custom dead zones to be just big enough to eliminate stick drift and no bigger which helps a ton.
I have bought multiple Xbox x/s (wtf is wrong with your naming scheme Microsoft seriously) controllers over the years used on eBay at the lower end of the price range ($25ish). I try to find listings that state the controllers have no stick drift. I guess one of the controllers I bought had a bit more stick drift than I wanted but I fiddled with the dead zone (in my case through steam settings) and the problem went away. For precision stuff I use an armor-x pro to give my Xbox controller gyroscope aiming anyways :P
This youtube channel is a great resource on all things controllers, the guy might come off as annoying at first but the info is extremely good. m.youtube.com/
I deal with it by warranty replacement if the controller is still within warranty or buying a new one. I just have accepted the fact that controllers are replaceable items in my life.
It happens because from normal use the potentiometer inside the joystick wears out. Usually you can buy joystick assemblies for a 1/10 of the price of a controller, so if you can solder its very affordable to repair them.
If you dont want to solder, you can extend their life by applying a bit of contact spray to the potmeters inside after disassembling the controller. But that can corrode other components, so be careful with it. Still beats just throwing them out.
I’ve seen those in disassembly videos of the steam deck and the switch maybe. But all the standalone controllers I personally have taken apart were soldered in place. eg. xbox360, dualshock4, some generic third-party ones.
I can confirm in the case of switch joy-cons, sticks (and also rails, another weak part of those) can be replaced without any kind of soldering. It’s all ribbon cables.
How come nintendo switch (with replaceable controllers), has major stick drift issues, causing owners to buy several controllers over the life of the console, while nintendo switch lite (without replaceable controllers) seems to have more reliable sticks? Does nintendo manufactures the replaceable sticks with just enough tolerance to last barely outside the warranty period so their customers would buy more?
Like, there’s lots of different components. The cheaper overall may have better parts in a few specific areas, because if it breaks, the whole thing is broken.
What do you mean lately? I personally repaired a drifting xbox360 controller, and that console was released almost 20 years ago. I assume the controller was just a few years younger than that. I think eventually all potentiometers develop this issue.
What part would you have to replace on an Xbox One Elite controller, and where can you source such part(s). I googled before with no luck. Would appreciate any help. Thank you!!
The solution to stick drift is buying controllers with Hall Effect joysticks; drift is caused by plastic parts literally grinding down and potentiometers wearing out. Hall Effect sticks don’t make contact, so they don’t have this issue. Since you like the Xbox layout, 8BitDo’s Ultimate controller could be a good third-party option for you.
Do you know what port it uses to charge? It has a charging dock but i can’t find it it charges through USB C or what in the dock. I dont want to have to use the dock to charge it
I don’t know, but I suspect they’d’ve advertised it if that’s the case.
For what it’s worth though, I’ve been using an 8bitdo Pro (the predecessor to the Ultimate) daily since early 2020, including a lot of Splatoon (a game with a lot of holding and mashing of both triggers), and the triggers haven’t gotten the least bit soft or drifty, and (according to the Windows controller config screen, at least) still smoothly pull through the full analogue range. So they’re doing something good, anyway.
Controllers wear out with every click. Buttons and sticks, they all have a limited number of cycles. Like 100,000 cycles, but if you play a lot of video games, that adds up over the years.
Super Smash Bro Melee players regularly replace Gamecube controllers for this reason.
That is kind of just how non hall effect thumb sticks are. But I’ve had great luck with Deoxit D5. You have to take apart the controller so you can squirt it directly into the switch itself but as long as it’s not a mechanical problem like a weak spring, the Deoxit usually gets it working like new.
Even some isopropyl alcohol works. My controller was drifting and I took it apart to blow it out and give it a good cleaning with alcohol. Works flawlessly now.
It’s one of the messier options but it still works well. The switches in my logitech g604 have been bounce free for over a year now after hosing then down with WD-40. That’s longer than any of the warranty replacement mice lasted.
Deoxit leaves a residue, too, that will stain clothes. That residue is what helps the contacts from oxidizing again in the future.
I used to think that Xbox controllers ALWAYS drift within a year.
Then I started keeping a secret controller away from the kids. It lasted years with no drift. I got a new one and let the kids use my old one… Drift in a month.
It’s not the controllers. You just drop it too much.
I’ve never had a controller with drift problems, and I know how I treat my controllers. I’ve seen people with controllers that drift all the time, and I’ve seen how they treat their controllers. There’s definitely a link.
That said high quality controllers (like first party ones) generally drift less, but not always (see switch joycons). If OP is killing his controller in months then something is going on.
And PS5 one. I’ve had a lot of controllers over the years and I’ve never had stick drift, except with joycons and the PS5 controller.
The switch pro controller is probably my most used controller, because it’s so ergonomic. I put the switch pro controller through a few thousand hours of smash bros. The stick is visibly deformed from mashing certain inputs over and over. And then a few thousand hours more playing Zelda and monster hunter (and souls games on PC). I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s had over 10 thousand hours of use. No stick drift on the controller.
I was gifted a PS5 controller because I was planning on getting the PS5. I never got a PS5, but that’s a different story. Anyway I decided to break it in to get comfortable with the layout and feel of the controller. Maybe max thousand hours of playtime which I’d consider it very light usage. And the left stick started to drift left. I’ve looked into it. It might just be an unfortunate speck of dust interfering with the sensor, but cleaning it requires almost complete disassembly and quite frankly it wasn’t that good of a controller anyway so it’s just collecting dust.
I’ve been suspicious that newer production lines for joysticks have been cutting costs in cheaper materials for a while now. I usually replace the joysticks when they drift, but I’m also quite comfortable to taking things apart and fixing them.
I remember my old PS2 controllers never drifted and that was back when I played hard on them every day after school. These days I hardly have time to play during the week, and they regularly go bad within a year or two.
I’ve had drift issues with my pro controller several times and I think I have less play time than you. Many of these controllers use the same stick component inside.
I got a 360 controller that is going strong but my Playstation and Nintendo controllers ended up drifting. I think they just don’t make them like they used to. My 360 controller is still one of my daily drivers.
The way some of my friends use controllers wants me to not have them around my house. Loudly banging sticks against the outer extremities, while for me it never even makes a sound.
I take care of my controllers, and only had very minot stick drift on 5-7 years old X/PS controller.
It’s not physical damage, they really are just crap now. Used controllers for a decade and a half. Early Xbox One controllers lasted for years until the face buttons would become sticky. 360 controller was a tank, only had a loose trigger. All the ones I’ve had recently just keep getting drift.
I can usually fix most cases of joystick drift by taking plastic safe electrical cleaner, and spraying it in around the joystick. Works for sticking buttons too.
I usually use CRC QD cleaner, it’s usually $5-10 and is available at Walmart, Amazon, and a bunch of other places. If you use something else make sure it says plastic safe on the can.
Yes, with the controller off, I spray down around the stick. Wait awhile before turning the controller back on so that the spray has time to evaporate.
Someone told me it fixed Joycon drift (which it does), but since then it’s fixed a lot of non-joycon controllers as well despite the different thumbstick designs.
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