Inhalation of dust, mist, or fumes containing beryllium can cause chronic beryllium disease, which restricts the exchange of oxygen between the lungs and the bloodstream. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) lists beryllium as a Group 1 human carcinogen. The National Toxicology Program (NTP) also lists beryllium as a carcinogen. Copper beryllium alloy containing less than 2.5% beryllium (in copper) is not designated as a carcinogen.
Yeah, I was looking for a good CMYK fountain pen ink set. Nobody seems to make such a set. I could get a lot of half-solutions that would kind of work, but nothing beats the colour space coverage of a complement of CMY inks that were specifically designed to cover the whole colour space. They’re also about 10 times cheaper than fountain pen ink.
(And I got my printer ink for free on top of that from a print shop that just discontinued sales of their manual printer ink refills. The shop was Prink in Oulu, Finland. They probably still have these free refills.)
About six drops of ink and water the rest of the way gives you an entire cartridge of ink. This stuff is super concentrated.
I would use printer ink for the K too, but that’s too much of a crapshoot. Too often, the K is pigment-based, and that is likely to ruin a fountain pen. And it’s easy enough to find a good neutral black fountain pen ink. That is what the Platinum carbon black is for. It’s actually even more concentrated. Just one drop of it divided between two refills makes about a 50:50 grey that I can further modify with the printer ink. For less grey I have to go all the way down to one drop every four refills.
There’s minerals and other things in tap water. These things will cause issues and damage.
Though, the Lamy Safari is a cheap enough pen to not worry about buying a new one after causing damage.
However, there are other considerations for not using printer ink. Printer ink is designed to be used on specific paper, while fountain pen ink is designed to be more versatile.
The colors for fountain pen ink are also more than the base color. There’s the shading which can be a different color from the base The sheen, which can make the ink shine a different color in different lighting. It’s designed to flow properly through the feed with an appropriate level of viscosity. There are a lot of factors and testing that goes into fountain pen ink. You can read more about it here: www.jetpens.com/blog/…/968
Hm. Thanks for the link. This could help me with my ink mixes. Oh, one thing that annoys me: I wish I had pure CMY dyes without surfactant in them, so that I could change the surfactant level and not make the ink so god damned bloody. But I have no fucking clue where I could find CMY dyes without the surfactant.
This is just pure chaos. Why would you use printer ink in a fountain pen? I cannot fathom any valid reason besides just wanting to do something batshit insane.
Printer ink is useful because each of the C, M, and Y inks is a perfect filter of exactly one colour. C filters red, M filters green, and Y filters blue. Commercial fountain pen inks almost never have this kind of absorptive specificity. They’re usually a mix of two or more dyes—a mix that you don’t control. Once a dye is in the mix, you can’t just take it out. The best you could do is dim all of the other colours, but then you lose saturation.
Here’s a specific example. Suppose you have a commercial ink of 5C:1M and you want pure C. You’re stuck with that 1M. The best you can do is add 1Y to make 5C:1M:1Y = 4C:1K. You’ve got a balanced C, but that extra 1K is going to make everything look a little grey. Ew. And that is assuming you can even get pure Y in the first place. No ink manufacturer in their right mind would try to sell a pure Y on purpose. It is very difficult to read. (Except under a pure blue light. It’s super awesome actually. This has been an underhanded privacy-invading tactic of the government for some time now. Yellow microdots are printed on all commercial inkjet printouts.)
These inks have also been designed to be mutually equally absorptive of their respective light wavelengths, so an equal ratio of 1C:1Y makes a perfectly balanced green. These inks has also been designed to stay in solution even when mixed. There are no chemical reactions that could cause precipitate to form, thus totally fucking the pen. Achieving this with commercial fountain pen inks would be difficult, and potentially dangerous.
However.
That’s actually not the reason why I started using printer ink. I was in Oulu, I had just run out of fountain pen ink, and all I could find was a print shop. Here is the whole story of my Oulu trip.I did a little research online before actually doing it. Other people have done it before. You just have to make sure to use dye-based ink and not pigment-based ink. I was able to confirm from Timi that it was dye-based. And prepare for the possibility of having accidentally turned your pen into an ink firehose because printer ink bleeds like three motherfuckers. It needs at least three parts water to calm it down.
I get the theory of wanting to use CMY inks. I just think it’s weird and a lot of extra work for such a narrow goal. There’s not really any wrong way to use your pens however you want, provided you’re aware of the risks and know that you may be spending more time than it’s really worth.
Can you explain your use of each item? I don’t mean the obvious ones, such as the pen and Leatherman. I mean the other edc items. They look interesting, but I don’t understand them.
So I’m a very texture based person (diagnosed adhd / generalised anxiety disorder and I suspect a little on the spectrum, but never formally diagnosed) and the three other things besides the leatherman and pen are heavily based around that
The dice (or die, I didn’t actually check before hand) is a nice weight and I like the feeling of rolling it between my thumb and index finger, and the two beads on each side are a phenomenal feeling bead to roll similarly. I like the contrast between the smooth SS beads and the sharper edges of the dice. Plus there’s something comforting in knowing I always have at least one die on me at all times (even though I keep a set of 6 mini dice on me in my pouch)
The bracelet looking thing, which is in fact a bracelet as well, is an mkultra from aroundsquare. Similarly as before, the texture and feeling of the beads is fantastic, with the added bonus of being able to wrap around my thumb a few times. That combined with them being good for bead counting / breath work, it’s very calming for me. It can also be used as a fidget / skill toy: see this video for a good intro
The beads on the paracord is a skill toy called begleri, and it’s just that: a skill toy. Video here. It’s a hobby, it’s something to constantly work at improving on and learn new tricks, it’s a way to keep busy, it’s a good way to pass the time instead of looking at my phone - there’s a lot of reasons why I refuse to go anywhere without a set with me. The begleri community is so wholesome and supportive too, which just makes it better
Neat! Ok! A different kind of EDC. That video on the begleri, I kept waiting for him to smack his face with it, since that’s exactly what I would end up doing hahaha! He didn’t though, which was good.
Is the dice bead also a sort of begleri or just tactile? Also can you recommend begleri communities? I tried to learn awhile ago and not much traction on my own. Not much on YouTube from what I saw.
The dice bead is just tactile. It could be used as a begleri if I had another one and set them up as one, but it would probably be too heavy - at least for my play preference
On Lemmy, sadly there’s not too many yet. I’m personally working on getting !idlehands (general skill toy and fidget community) and !begleri going, and there’s also !begleri
I mainly participate on Instagram, since that seems to have the most contributors begleri community wise. I can link awesome people to follow, if you’re on instagram
There’s a few Discord servers that are active too, a begleri one and an Aroundaquare one. I can get you links later on if you like
In terms of resources for learning:
begleritricks.com has a lot of tutorials, trick database, and trick index, plus a good intro on vernacular
TGP posts a lot of good begleri videos, though he doesn’t go super into them as a tutorial, but it’s good for quickly seeing a lot of different tricks for inspiration
And as much as I hate to link it, the begleri subreddit does have some good info too
I got my first set in 2018, and stopped for a bit because I wasn’t really getting anywhere with it. For me what made a difference when I picked it back up again in 2021 was trying different physical combinations: bead shapes and weights, cord diameters, joiner lengths, etc. as well as finding a few clips online and downloading it to my phone so I could put it in slow motion and try to replicate it. It’s also a lot easier to learn if you’re just sat on a bed or carpeted floor or something similar. With dropping it, you’re just right there it’s a lot less frustrating when you don’t have to crouch down every two seconds to try again and it’s a lot easier to adjust the timing and whatnot when the attempts are closer together - I think I learnt at least half of the tricks I know being sat outside on the grass during a nice day. I would also recommend just having a set with you and doing rebounds when you have a chance, because getting a feel for how the momentum is carried will really help with getting the timing for other tricks
Thanks for the detailed reply! I’m familiar with Musclebones and Aroundsquare, but the others I’ll have to dig into. I made my own set awhile back with some hex nuts, I wanted to level it up with some nicer beads but didn’t find anything locally. I’ll probably wind up ordering some kind of bead online. I have trouble consciensing buying something that seems like it could be made so easily haha. I’ll check out those communities too. Thanks again!
Yeah a lot of people love their homemade ones, and I’ve made a few myself, but at least for me the beads specifically designed for begleri are worlds better. I feel like it’s easier to make a really nice set when you already know what your bead shape, size, and weight preference is - if that makes sense
Aha yeah I know AO2 can be a little pricy, though they do have some great ones in the cheaper range: the Mini Hydras in SS/Delrin being one of them, which are $20. Great starter set, but it’s also impossible to outgrow them, pros. use them still. The weight (18g) is basically the goldilocks weight for most people, the bead shape is excellent
You probably could get a pair from amazon or ebay for like $15 that would serve you well, but I’ve found those to be either way too light or way too heavy and the beads just kinda feel… shitty, and they might even be unbalanced because quality control is nonexistent.
I don’t mean to sound like an aroundsquare shill, I just do genuinely love their products and the owner, Matt, is one of the coolest guys ever
@FlashZordon@tkk13909 Definitely check out CalyxOS. There's been a lot of drama between the graphene and calyx communities, but mostly attacks and misinformation from the graphene side. The Calyx foundation is really cool and they provide good support. Graphene enhances the android security model (this is useful perhaps but extreme for most people) while Calyx maintains it - most custom ROMs weaken the security model by not relocking the bootloader.
First of all, I formatted the USB drive with one vfat partition. Then I copied the contents of the ISO over. That and some prodding in grub.conf is enough to get the ISO working, and there is a whole lot of extra space in the vfat partition.
The entire contents of all of my computers’ hard drives is encrypted, but that leaves the boot partition. So I moved the boot partitions onto the vfat partition, each in a separate folder labelled by the host. Then, I added entries to grub.conf for each host. The USB drive boots and a boot menu appears with all of the ISO’s entries, plus a list of hosts. I choose the right host, then boot.
(I need the USB drive mounted before I can update the kernel or the microcode.)
O wow! This is totally not what I imagined. I imagined something like Ventoy. You literally made portable your boot partitions which without, the device is unbootable. Since it’s on a portable USB, you can essentially brick any device as easily as pulling the drive and cutting power. That’s ingenious!
And very dangerous. If anything happens to my USB drives and all of my many (many many many) backups, they are bricked to me too. My LUKS keys are on that USB drive. And the backups.
The same can be said for any drive, though. If the drive dies or the boot partition corrupts itself, we’re screwed. You seem to have backups of the boot partitions, so the likelihood of you losing all your backups is slim, but you make it easy for yourself to destroy the drive in the event of… let’s call it, an immediate need. And that’s what I find most ingenious.
LUKS is full hard drive encryption. If you encrypt your entire hard drive with a yubi key, then lose the yubi key, and you have no backup, you’re shit outta luck. I encrypted my hard drives with a USB drive in a similar fashion. Then made backups of the USB drive, so that the scenario I describe wouldn’t happen. Hopefully. It’s kind of like horcruxes. If somebody steals them all, I become mortal again. Actually, though, if somebody steals them all, I lose all of the data on the hard drive.
Hey different strokes for different folks, by your perspective sure they’re not essentials, but I personally find these to be essentials. I’ve literally not gone a day without these since I’ve gotten them, because they help me with my anxiety and adhd- but if you don’t suffer from that I’m so glad for you
I don’t use a Lamy (I use a Kaweco) but I can say that fountain pens are pretty nice if you like liquid and smooth writing. It’s not good on other materials other than paper like hard materials but for doing math and writing it’s a breeze.
You kinda have to be an enthusiast to make a fountain pen an edc. They require more work, are more prone to damage and has the potential to spill all that lovely ink all over your nice clothes. I just keep mine at my desk. They’re a pleasure to write with given a quality make.
Same practicality but it requires more care. If you want a daily use beater, go for Pentel energels or Sharpie S-Gels for some smooth writing and deep colors.
Ballpoints always jam on me, requiring about a kilonewton of force and about five minutes of blank scribbling to get it going again. Then, often, they leave big blotches of their sticky ink on the page when turning a corner.
The Safari does jam on occasion, but usually, a single well-placed drop of water is enough to get it going again. That depends on the ink you use though. If you use water and inkjet printer ink, it never jams, though it is a little bloody. 30 water : 1 platinum carbon black makes a lovely grey, but it jams so bad that I need to add a bit of inkjet printer ink to keep it running. Yeah, you’re definitely not supposed to water down that ink so much lol.
30 water : 1 platinum carbon black : 5 yellow : 5 magenta is the mix for octarine.
But seriously, 30 water : 1 platinum carbon black : 10 printer ink is a good starting point for mixing. That is about how sensitive the mix is to each type of ink. Pure printer ink won’t ruin the pen, but it bleeds like a motherfucker. If you don’t care about the next five pieces of paper, though, you can do some pretty cool stuff with it.
I totally understand that it’s the kind of thing where if you get it, you get it and if you don’t, you don’t and that’s 100% fine.
But to simply call these just fidget toys is very reductionist. They’re a hobby, just like anything else. You work at it and you build new skills, new tricks, etc. You can’t just use it right out of the box without spending a decent amount of time practicing
Do you see a yo-yo or kendama as ‘fidget toys’ similarly? If so then at least you’re being consistent, but if you see that as a skill based hobby then you should try to reframe begleri into that category as well. It’s essentially a yo-yo on a smaller scale
I personally don’t see the point in spending 1-2k on a set of golf clubs, but I don’t knock people for doing so - it’s their hobby. Whilst I can’t imagine spending ~400 on a watch, I have spent that amount for a fountain pen. Some people invest loads of money working on their car to be super cool, when someone else may look at that and think ‘and my car also gets me where I’m going at the cheaper base model’.
Everyone has an interest that someone else would likely deem ‘a waste of money’, and that person in turn almost certainly has a similar hobby that will be judged.
I try not to yuck other peoples yum. If it makes them happy and it’s not hurting anyone else, that’s what matters, that’s a positive thing
Lmaoooo no one? I’m just trying to get people to be a little more open minded and maybe make this community a little more welcoming to people who carry more than the basic ‘keys wallet knife’ template
@loudWaterEnjoyer@wren A lot of people have been asking about the skill toys and wren has already answered what they are for many times. I think wren's assuming that the person who said "all for a fidget toy" has already read the other messages and is just being disingenuous.
Thank you - that’s absolutely it, which is why I’m not engaging with the other comments on this anymore, because it just feels like feeding the trolls at this point. I thought I was being quite polite and respectful in my response above. I have a lot of patience for people that don’t get it - but not a lot for intentional closed-mindedness. I’m trying to help make this place a more positive and welcoming community, that’s all. The EDC community here on Lemmy is too small to already start with the gatekeeping, it won’t do anyone any favours to be all ‘post what you carry and consider essentials… but not like that’
you know it wasn’t till I enrolled in a physics degree that I met another human using a fountain pen. My first year prof.
Why are we so fucking weird? It’s obviously superior not having to exert normal force on the page to write (fuck you ball points) but why isn’t that more widespread.
because we have to fill or change cartridges, buy or make ink, clean the nibs, carry our pens carefully… too much effort just to write
ballpoints are efficient, sturdy and effortless. There are situations when we have to write/mark quickly while standing or outside under the weather
it’s not a question of “superiority” but practicality. when i’m writing or drawing on my desk i use a fountain pen. outside i carry a small zebra ballpoint
you have to do that to ballpoints to. Unless you use them disposably which there are disposable fountain pens too if you are a paper plates sort of person.
Felt tips share most of the advantages of ballpoints and fountain pens so are a defensible choice. They tend to work upside down too which fountain pens and ballpoints don’t. Although pencils, soapstone, or pressurised paint markers are better in those applications generally.
Ah yeah the felt is actually my preference for writing, because they never jam . . . (unless you leave the lid off like an idiot lol). But they’re not refillable and the tips aren’t replaceable. Usually. I have seen refillable felt tip markers. It’s definitely something I would be willing to try.
Yeah I had one ages back but you did need to replace the wicking material and tip periodically, filling also involved slowly infusing with a syringe and drawing needle.
In the end it was about as much hassle as a solid fountain pen and I couldn’t use archivists ink so I went back.
Well, I can comment on water damage. My printer ink is totally immune, and so is the Platinum carbon black. I don’t trust the black in felt tips, but the printer ink would be fine. Probably. My printer ink has a curious property of being perfectly water soluble until absorbed by certain materials including paper and fabric, after which it becomes pretty darned permanent.
UV damage, well, if my ink dyes are the same as in the UV faded inkjet printouts I see taped to the windows of abandoned storefronts, then that will be a problem if I decided to put the pages of my notebook on display in direct sunlight. I’ve never done that or have been compelled to do it, but never say never, I guess.
That’s a good question, though. Have you lost data to sunbeams before, or is this more of a hypothetical?
Yeah I’m in Australia and I left my lab notebook by a window over a holiday break. It was probably getting over 50 C daily and the ink all faded. I don’t think it was UV, as multiple pages were damaged, I think the ink wasn’t hugely temperature stable.
It wasn’t like magically gone, but faded enough that my chicken scratch was hard to read. Between that and water damage at various points I figured I’d just switch before something got fucked up beyond salvaging. Besides, you never know what’ll be interesting to future generations. Whether it’s a grandkid paging through something to get a sense of who you were or some researcher going through archives. Archivists ink is non acidic, so it doesn’t destroy paper over time. Idk whether printer ink is.
Wow, that’s awesome! I mean yeah I’m sorry to hear your ink faded in the heat, but at least some good came out of it: that’s a whole new mode of failure I didn’t know about. Hey, maybe I’ll try putting a test page in the oven’s warming drawer or something.
Yeah might be worth a test. I assume most modern pigments are probably pretty stable, this was 10 years ago using ink that was 40 years old even then. At a certain point we all just develop idiosyncratic neuroses as a result of experiences :)
Don’t overthink it, look at classic Jansport bags. I’d gone through so many different backpack companies looking for a decent, reasonably priced backpack that wasn’t bogged down with useless shit but still had some organization for my daily carry stuff. I commute to work on the train and have to bring tools, not to mention some odds and ends for sporadic use, rain gear. So I got a bigger one, but it sounds like you could go with the medium size and you’d be right as rain.
It seems like bags these days are really pieces of shit, or they’re these super involved and stupidly expensive bags that are just entirely unnecessary. I’m glad I got a Jansport again. I just wish I had thought of it before I tried like four others that sucked.
That’s my problem. The bags that I see that look like they would meet my needs are really basic and cheap looking. Like the fabric would tear in the first week of use. I need to carry my work uniform, a BT speaker, 2 Contigo bottles and maybe have room for some other random stuff. I just need to throw it all in a single compartment and go. I only have to carry it as far as the car, toss it on the back seat and then carry into work from the parking lot. Don’t need chest and waist straps, don’t care how thick the padding is in the shoulder straps, don’t care if it’s waterproof, it will never hold my laptop, don’t need all the useless bells and whistles that seem to be so popular these days.
Definitely Jansport. They have the classic bags that don’t even have the laptop sleeve against the backpad inside the large pocket. Although I found use for that pocket to store my book, so I can always find it quickly and it doesn’t get ripped.
I have the classic Jansport, just broke it out again after my swissgear laptop bag started giving up the ghost. Can’t believe I stopped using it lol, it’s lovely.
Right?! Jansport served me so well my entire childhood. And then I just totally forgot about it when I wanted a “basic-normal looking” backpack that was simple and made sense. Long live Jansport.
Maxpedition has a “Prepared Citizen” line that is basically a Jansport design with very durable fabric like military packs use. Not everyone’s taste but a cool idea imo
@TheFriar@DeepChill As a generally low-income person who recently spent hundreds on a backpack I will defend expensive products lol. To me, if it uses recycled materials, fair trade labour, and the design is something innovative and thoughtful, it's worth it.
You do pay more for features. I got the WANDRD PRVKE which has a divided main compartment with 3 access points, a handful of hidden pockets, weatherproofing, a very structured and padded harness system and more, because that's what I like
Fair enough. OP seems like they really don’t need much more than something simple, though. That looks like a great utility backpack for specialized needs and a technical job with many little pieces for specific gear. It looks great, and it’s one of those backpacks that I always imagine I’d really enjoy, but I’m disorganized and like quick access to a big pouch and nothing else. I have a few Klein pouches I keep more specialized categories of smaller stuff in, and I think that’s as good as my organization gets. That bag looks great for professional camera stuff or something.
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