That is kind of just how non hall effect thumb sticks are. But I’ve had great luck with Deoxit D5. You have to take apart the controller so you can squirt it directly into the switch itself but as long as it’s not a mechanical problem like a weak spring, the Deoxit usually gets it working like new.
Even some isopropyl alcohol works. My controller was drifting and I took it apart to blow it out and give it a good cleaning with alcohol. Works flawlessly now.
It’s one of the messier options but it still works well. The switches in my logitech g604 have been bounce free for over a year now after hosing then down with WD-40. That’s longer than any of the warranty replacement mice lasted.
Deoxit leaves a residue, too, that will stain clothes. That residue is what helps the contacts from oxidizing again in the future.
Controllers wear out with every click. Buttons and sticks, they all have a limited number of cycles. Like 100,000 cycles, but if you play a lot of video games, that adds up over the years.
Super Smash Bro Melee players regularly replace Gamecube controllers for this reason.
The solution to stick drift is buying controllers with Hall Effect joysticks; drift is caused by plastic parts literally grinding down and potentiometers wearing out. Hall Effect sticks don’t make contact, so they don’t have this issue. Since you like the Xbox layout, 8BitDo’s Ultimate controller could be a good third-party option for you.
Do you know what port it uses to charge? It has a charging dock but i can’t find it it charges through USB C or what in the dock. I dont want to have to use the dock to charge it
I don’t know, but I suspect they’d’ve advertised it if that’s the case.
For what it’s worth though, I’ve been using an 8bitdo Pro (the predecessor to the Ultimate) daily since early 2020, including a lot of Splatoon (a game with a lot of holding and mashing of both triggers), and the triggers haven’t gotten the least bit soft or drifty, and (according to the Windows controller config screen, at least) still smoothly pull through the full analogue range. So they’re doing something good, anyway.
What part would you have to replace on an Xbox One Elite controller, and where can you source such part(s). I googled before with no luck. Would appreciate any help. Thank you!!
It happens because from normal use the potentiometer inside the joystick wears out. Usually you can buy joystick assemblies for a 1/10 of the price of a controller, so if you can solder its very affordable to repair them.
If you dont want to solder, you can extend their life by applying a bit of contact spray to the potmeters inside after disassembling the controller. But that can corrode other components, so be careful with it. Still beats just throwing them out.
I’ve seen those in disassembly videos of the steam deck and the switch maybe. But all the standalone controllers I personally have taken apart were soldered in place. eg. xbox360, dualshock4, some generic third-party ones.
I can confirm in the case of switch joy-cons, sticks (and also rails, another weak part of those) can be replaced without any kind of soldering. It’s all ribbon cables.
How come nintendo switch (with replaceable controllers), has major stick drift issues, causing owners to buy several controllers over the life of the console, while nintendo switch lite (without replaceable controllers) seems to have more reliable sticks? Does nintendo manufactures the replaceable sticks with just enough tolerance to last barely outside the warranty period so their customers would buy more?
Like, there’s lots of different components. The cheaper overall may have better parts in a few specific areas, because if it breaks, the whole thing is broken.
What do you mean lately? I personally repaired a drifting xbox360 controller, and that console was released almost 20 years ago. I assume the controller was just a few years younger than that. I think eventually all potentiometers develop this issue.
I deal with it by warranty replacement if the controller is still within warranty or buying a new one. I just have accepted the fact that controllers are replaceable items in my life.
It’s pretty common for Xbox controllers to get stick drift especially if they are older. Controllers that use “Hall effect” sensors for the joysticks apparently don’t have this issue but I am not sure there are any affordable ones I can recommend. I am not sure how common it is for Xbox controllers to just have a stick straight up die, that sounds much more unusual and maybe like something that is more prone to happen with a third party controller?
I have never done it but you can replace just the joystick part on the controller and that may be a cheaper route.
Also, if you are playing on a computer, software such as steam will let you define custom dead zones to be just big enough to eliminate stick drift and no bigger which helps a ton.
I have bought multiple Xbox x/s (wtf is wrong with your naming scheme Microsoft seriously) controllers over the years used on eBay at the lower end of the price range ($25ish). I try to find listings that state the controllers have no stick drift. I guess one of the controllers I bought had a bit more stick drift than I wanted but I fiddled with the dead zone (in my case through steam settings) and the problem went away. For precision stuff I use an armor-x pro to give my Xbox controller gyroscope aiming anyways :P
This youtube channel is a great resource on all things controllers, the guy might come off as annoying at first but the info is extremely good. m.youtube.com/
Against the Storm. Picked it up way back in early access and kind of thought it sucked. Saw some people talk about it recently and decided to give it another go, and it doesn’t suck anymore! I suck at it, having lost every round, but I keep going back in, so I guess I like it now.
Nice mini champ, im a big fan of the gerber dime when i dont carry my centerdrive (and yes im the one who asked if it was a leatherman crunch on C/machinist)
I think I have 15 of those flashlights now. Several reds for astronomy, several whites stashed around in cars and backpacks, a few uv, and a blue and green because why not. My EDC is an olight i1r on my keychain since it’s smaller, rechargeable, and only needed randomly, but those compact AA lights are so convenient either when packing for an exact activity or using in an emergency. I store them with rechargeable batteries but like that I can use a standard battery on the fly too, if needed.
For everyone else, they’re generic flashlights I find on ebay. The head is focusable (o-ring slider) from a 60+° circle with smooth output down to some very tight beam that projects the grid lines of the LED chip - and a hair above that focus you can project just the lead wire. Half-pressing the tail button switches between bright/medium/dim/strobe.
Yeah we use them here to check for print errors. The high CRI is nice but unnecessary. What’s good is how smooth the diffusion is! Very good for checking ink adhesion in our films. I love how the LED shape is projected. 😁. I found out about the strobe by accident.
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