I slept on Risk of Rain 2 for a long time but finally tried it out and damn, they did a great job converting the original from 2d to 3d.
Still picking away at Hades achievements, too. I’m at over 90% now and will trigger another one once I get back from my current run. 3 more after that: one grindy one, one gifty one, and one with a lot of heat. Might also go for 100% on the relationship bonds.
Bought all 3 RoR games. Terrible on all 3. Probably because I don’t stick to the games. I feel defeated and stop playing…just to start again a few months later.
I somehow didn’t realize there were 3 of them lol.
But yeah, these are definitely games you need to stick with and unlock stuff for progression. I didn’t make it past like stage 2 or 3 until I had unlocked a couple other characters.
And with the way the items stack, you lose versatility but gain power if you use the 3d printer to convert all of your powerups into a single one (though not every powerup is worth it, at least I think). I still haven’t beaten the game for the 2nd one, but I’m making it to the last level more consistently now.
My experience in ROR2 was, in the tutorial, I was told “You did it! Now head to the teleporter that takes you to the next level.” I had no idea where it was or what it looked like, and could not consider the question for 10 seconds because the level quickly built up with more and more infinite enemies.
I hate roguelike games in general because that randomization leads to some very, very uncontrolled and uncurated experiences where it throws the worst shit at a new player.
Yeah, joystick build quality has been going down for me since the second Xbox One controllers. Last one I had couldn’t get past 4 months without a smidge of drift already showing (just past the free 3 month warranty, fuck you MS). Got a Hall Effect one from Gamesir this time and I forget it’s not an official one until I have to use the D-pad (really hate non-mechanical D-pads) but otherwise worth the $40 so far.
Oh also Hall Effect joysticks are just so nice to use. They feel frictionless.
Can’t wait until an Elite that comes with Hall Effect sticks. Surely that is the next step for the next gen controller. Certainly at that premium price point.
I can usually fix most cases of joystick drift by taking plastic safe electrical cleaner, and spraying it in around the joystick. Works for sticking buttons too.
I usually use CRC QD cleaner, it’s usually $5-10 and is available at Walmart, Amazon, and a bunch of other places. If you use something else make sure it says plastic safe on the can.
Yes, with the controller off, I spray down around the stick. Wait awhile before turning the controller back on so that the spray has time to evaporate.
Someone told me it fixed Joycon drift (which it does), but since then it’s fixed a lot of non-joycon controllers as well despite the different thumbstick designs.
It happens because from normal use the potentiometer inside the joystick wears out. Usually you can buy joystick assemblies for a 1/10 of the price of a controller, so if you can solder its very affordable to repair them.
If you dont want to solder, you can extend their life by applying a bit of contact spray to the potmeters inside after disassembling the controller. But that can corrode other components, so be careful with it. Still beats just throwing them out.
I’ve seen those in disassembly videos of the steam deck and the switch maybe. But all the standalone controllers I personally have taken apart were soldered in place. eg. xbox360, dualshock4, some generic third-party ones.
I can confirm in the case of switch joy-cons, sticks (and also rails, another weak part of those) can be replaced without any kind of soldering. It’s all ribbon cables.
How come nintendo switch (with replaceable controllers), has major stick drift issues, causing owners to buy several controllers over the life of the console, while nintendo switch lite (without replaceable controllers) seems to have more reliable sticks? Does nintendo manufactures the replaceable sticks with just enough tolerance to last barely outside the warranty period so their customers would buy more?
Like, there’s lots of different components. The cheaper overall may have better parts in a few specific areas, because if it breaks, the whole thing is broken.
What do you mean lately? I personally repaired a drifting xbox360 controller, and that console was released almost 20 years ago. I assume the controller was just a few years younger than that. I think eventually all potentiometers develop this issue.
Against the Storm. Picked it up way back in early access and kind of thought it sucked. Saw some people talk about it recently and decided to give it another go, and it doesn’t suck anymore! I suck at it, having lost every round, but I keep going back in, so I guess I like it now.
Nice mini champ, im a big fan of the gerber dime when i dont carry my centerdrive (and yes im the one who asked if it was a leatherman crunch on C/machinist)
Helldivers 2! Played the first one a bit but not nearly as engaged with that as I am in this. Bought on launch day and had a blast until the massive player spike killed the servers, that’s seems to be better now as I was able to get in fine and play for a few hours last night.
It’s 100% worth the price and hype but I recommend waiting a few weeks to a month from now while they fully deal with server load issues and they say mechs are pretty much ready to be added now and are just getting polished.
For background, the first game peaked at ~7000 players, this one had 480K on steam alone and that number again on PlayStation this past weekend. They didn’t expect this level of success and so didn’t plan to have server capacity and robust network code for it, they are putting in the long nights to fix it though and we’re already seeing improvements only a couple weeks in
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