Yeah, I was looking for a good CMYK fountain pen ink set. Nobody seems to make such a set. I could get a lot of half-solutions that would kind of work, but nothing beats the colour space coverage of a complement of CMY inks that were specifically designed to cover the whole colour space. They’re also about 10 times cheaper than fountain pen ink.
(And I got my printer ink for free on top of that from a print shop that just discontinued sales of their manual printer ink refills. The shop was Prink in Oulu, Finland. They probably still have these free refills.)
About six drops of ink and water the rest of the way gives you an entire cartridge of ink. This stuff is super concentrated.
I would use printer ink for the K too, but that’s too much of a crapshoot. Too often, the K is pigment-based, and that is likely to ruin a fountain pen. And it’s easy enough to find a good neutral black fountain pen ink. That is what the Platinum carbon black is for. It’s actually even more concentrated. Just one drop of it divided between two refills makes about a 50:50 grey that I can further modify with the printer ink. For less grey I have to go all the way down to one drop every four refills.
There’s minerals and other things in tap water. These things will cause issues and damage.
Though, the Lamy Safari is a cheap enough pen to not worry about buying a new one after causing damage.
However, there are other considerations for not using printer ink. Printer ink is designed to be used on specific paper, while fountain pen ink is designed to be more versatile.
The colors for fountain pen ink are also more than the base color. There’s the shading which can be a different color from the base The sheen, which can make the ink shine a different color in different lighting. It’s designed to flow properly through the feed with an appropriate level of viscosity. There are a lot of factors and testing that goes into fountain pen ink. You can read more about it here: www.jetpens.com/blog/…/968
Hm. Thanks for the link. This could help me with my ink mixes. Oh, one thing that annoys me: I wish I had pure CMY dyes without surfactant in them, so that I could change the surfactant level and not make the ink so god damned bloody. But I have no fucking clue where I could find CMY dyes without the surfactant.
This is just pure chaos. Why would you use printer ink in a fountain pen? I cannot fathom any valid reason besides just wanting to do something batshit insane.
Printer ink is useful because each of the C, M, and Y inks is a perfect filter of exactly one colour. C filters red, M filters green, and Y filters blue. Commercial fountain pen inks almost never have this kind of absorptive specificity. They’re usually a mix of two or more dyes—a mix that you don’t control. Once a dye is in the mix, you can’t just take it out. The best you could do is dim all of the other colours, but then you lose saturation.
Here’s a specific example. Suppose you have a commercial ink of 5C:1M and you want pure C. You’re stuck with that 1M. The best you can do is add 1Y to make 5C:1M:1Y = 4C:1K. You’ve got a balanced C, but that extra 1K is going to make everything look a little grey. Ew. And that is assuming you can even get pure Y in the first place. No ink manufacturer in their right mind would try to sell a pure Y on purpose. It is very difficult to read. (Except under a pure blue light. It’s super awesome actually. This has been an underhanded privacy-invading tactic of the government for some time now. Yellow microdots are printed on all commercial inkjet printouts.)
These inks have also been designed to be mutually equally absorptive of their respective light wavelengths, so an equal ratio of 1C:1Y makes a perfectly balanced green. These inks has also been designed to stay in solution even when mixed. There are no chemical reactions that could cause precipitate to form, thus totally fucking the pen. Achieving this with commercial fountain pen inks would be difficult, and potentially dangerous.
However.
That’s actually not the reason why I started using printer ink. I was in Oulu, I had just run out of fountain pen ink, and all I could find was a print shop. Here is the whole story of my Oulu trip.I did a little research online before actually doing it. Other people have done it before. You just have to make sure to use dye-based ink and not pigment-based ink. I was able to confirm from Timi that it was dye-based. And prepare for the possibility of having accidentally turned your pen into an ink firehose because printer ink bleeds like three motherfuckers. It needs at least three parts water to calm it down.
I get the theory of wanting to use CMY inks. I just think it’s weird and a lot of extra work for such a narrow goal. There’s not really any wrong way to use your pens however you want, provided you’re aware of the risks and know that you may be spending more time than it’s really worth.
30 water : 1 platinum carbon black : 5 yellow : 5 magenta is the mix for octarine.
But seriously, 30 water : 1 platinum carbon black : 10 printer ink is a good starting point for mixing. That is about how sensitive the mix is to each type of ink. Pure printer ink won’t ruin the pen, but it bleeds like a motherfucker. If you don’t care about the next five pieces of paper, though, you can do some pretty cool stuff with it.
you know it wasn’t till I enrolled in a physics degree that I met another human using a fountain pen. My first year prof.
Why are we so fucking weird? It’s obviously superior not having to exert normal force on the page to write (fuck you ball points) but why isn’t that more widespread.
because we have to fill or change cartridges, buy or make ink, clean the nibs, carry our pens carefully… too much effort just to write
ballpoints are efficient, sturdy and effortless. There are situations when we have to write/mark quickly while standing or outside under the weather
it’s not a question of “superiority” but practicality. when i’m writing or drawing on my desk i use a fountain pen. outside i carry a small zebra ballpoint
you have to do that to ballpoints to. Unless you use them disposably which there are disposable fountain pens too if you are a paper plates sort of person.
Felt tips share most of the advantages of ballpoints and fountain pens so are a defensible choice. They tend to work upside down too which fountain pens and ballpoints don’t. Although pencils, soapstone, or pressurised paint markers are better in those applications generally.
Ah yeah the felt is actually my preference for writing, because they never jam . . . (unless you leave the lid off like an idiot lol). But they’re not refillable and the tips aren’t replaceable. Usually. I have seen refillable felt tip markers. It’s definitely something I would be willing to try.
Yeah I had one ages back but you did need to replace the wicking material and tip periodically, filling also involved slowly infusing with a syringe and drawing needle.
In the end it was about as much hassle as a solid fountain pen and I couldn’t use archivists ink so I went back.
Well, I can comment on water damage. My printer ink is totally immune, and so is the Platinum carbon black. I don’t trust the black in felt tips, but the printer ink would be fine. Probably. My printer ink has a curious property of being perfectly water soluble until absorbed by certain materials including paper and fabric, after which it becomes pretty darned permanent.
UV damage, well, if my ink dyes are the same as in the UV faded inkjet printouts I see taped to the windows of abandoned storefronts, then that will be a problem if I decided to put the pages of my notebook on display in direct sunlight. I’ve never done that or have been compelled to do it, but never say never, I guess.
That’s a good question, though. Have you lost data to sunbeams before, or is this more of a hypothetical?
Yeah I’m in Australia and I left my lab notebook by a window over a holiday break. It was probably getting over 50 C daily and the ink all faded. I don’t think it was UV, as multiple pages were damaged, I think the ink wasn’t hugely temperature stable.
It wasn’t like magically gone, but faded enough that my chicken scratch was hard to read. Between that and water damage at various points I figured I’d just switch before something got fucked up beyond salvaging. Besides, you never know what’ll be interesting to future generations. Whether it’s a grandkid paging through something to get a sense of who you were or some researcher going through archives. Archivists ink is non acidic, so it doesn’t destroy paper over time. Idk whether printer ink is.
Wow, that’s awesome! I mean yeah I’m sorry to hear your ink faded in the heat, but at least some good came out of it: that’s a whole new mode of failure I didn’t know about. Hey, maybe I’ll try putting a test page in the oven’s warming drawer or something.
Yeah might be worth a test. I assume most modern pigments are probably pretty stable, this was 10 years ago using ink that was 40 years old even then. At a certain point we all just develop idiosyncratic neuroses as a result of experiences :)
Nice, I’ve got the OG PinePhone. It had some circuit board issues, but I loved helping at the ground floor. Is the PPPro good enough to daily drive yet?
I also keep a USB, but with my Keepass database so that it’s an offline carry. I keep 2 copies additional to that, 1 in my fire safe, and 1 in my mothers fire safe.
If you don’t mind living without a camera, yes. I think I might be able to get the camera working, but it hasn’t been a priority, because I never used my phone’s camera that much even before I switched to the PPPro.
I don’t use a Lamy (I use a Kaweco) but I can say that fountain pens are pretty nice if you like liquid and smooth writing. It’s not good on other materials other than paper like hard materials but for doing math and writing it’s a breeze.
You kinda have to be an enthusiast to make a fountain pen an edc. They require more work, are more prone to damage and has the potential to spill all that lovely ink all over your nice clothes. I just keep mine at my desk. They’re a pleasure to write with given a quality make.
Same practicality but it requires more care. If you want a daily use beater, go for Pentel energels or Sharpie S-Gels for some smooth writing and deep colors.
Ballpoints always jam on me, requiring about a kilonewton of force and about five minutes of blank scribbling to get it going again. Then, often, they leave big blotches of their sticky ink on the page when turning a corner.
The Safari does jam on occasion, but usually, a single well-placed drop of water is enough to get it going again. That depends on the ink you use though. If you use water and inkjet printer ink, it never jams, though it is a little bloody. 30 water : 1 platinum carbon black makes a lovely grey, but it jams so bad that I need to add a bit of inkjet printer ink to keep it running. Yeah, you’re definitely not supposed to water down that ink so much lol.
First of all, I formatted the USB drive with one vfat partition. Then I copied the contents of the ISO over. That and some prodding in grub.conf is enough to get the ISO working, and there is a whole lot of extra space in the vfat partition.
The entire contents of all of my computers’ hard drives is encrypted, but that leaves the boot partition. So I moved the boot partitions onto the vfat partition, each in a separate folder labelled by the host. Then, I added entries to grub.conf for each host. The USB drive boots and a boot menu appears with all of the ISO’s entries, plus a list of hosts. I choose the right host, then boot.
(I need the USB drive mounted before I can update the kernel or the microcode.)
O wow! This is totally not what I imagined. I imagined something like Ventoy. You literally made portable your boot partitions which without, the device is unbootable. Since it’s on a portable USB, you can essentially brick any device as easily as pulling the drive and cutting power. That’s ingenious!
And very dangerous. If anything happens to my USB drives and all of my many (many many many) backups, they are bricked to me too. My LUKS keys are on that USB drive. And the backups.
The same can be said for any drive, though. If the drive dies or the boot partition corrupts itself, we’re screwed. You seem to have backups of the boot partitions, so the likelihood of you losing all your backups is slim, but you make it easy for yourself to destroy the drive in the event of… let’s call it, an immediate need. And that’s what I find most ingenious.
LUKS is full hard drive encryption. If you encrypt your entire hard drive with a yubi key, then lose the yubi key, and you have no backup, you’re shit outta luck. I encrypted my hard drives with a USB drive in a similar fashion. Then made backups of the USB drive, so that the scenario I describe wouldn’t happen. Hopefully. It’s kind of like horcruxes. If somebody steals them all, I become mortal again. Actually, though, if somebody steals them all, I lose all of the data on the hard drive.
Maybe, maybe not. Of the people I work with, only a handful even have a notebook. One other uses a Kaweco Sport FP. So for my sample, it’s a mixed bag.
Yeah, I know. Like I told the other guy, it’s a stock image. An image of the real pen wouldn’t add anything except ink in the window, and I can’t take a better picture than whoever did the stock image. The ink in the window looks entirely unremarkable.
…
/me looks at ink in the window for five minutes with a bright light backlighting the window.
…
Yeah, the ink in there is entirely unremarkable. It’s just grey air bubbles and black water. IDK, you want a picture of the ink window anyway?
@etuomaala For the record, if you posted multiple images, they're not visible to me on Mastodon. When I've done the opposite, posting to Lemmy with a Mastodon account, multiple photos aren't visible to the lemmy users either.
Oh, neat, Mastodon! I didn’t know for sure whether this was reaching Mastodon. I only posted the one image. I didn’t know I could post multiple images. Now, I know not to try, for compatibility reasons.
I think I have 15 of those flashlights now. Several reds for astronomy, several whites stashed around in cars and backpacks, a few uv, and a blue and green because why not. My EDC is an olight i1r on my keychain since it’s smaller, rechargeable, and only needed randomly, but those compact AA lights are so convenient either when packing for an exact activity or using in an emergency. I store them with rechargeable batteries but like that I can use a standard battery on the fly too, if needed.
For everyone else, they’re generic flashlights I find on ebay. The head is focusable (o-ring slider) from a 60+° circle with smooth output down to some very tight beam that projects the grid lines of the LED chip - and a hair above that focus you can project just the lead wire. Half-pressing the tail button switches between bright/medium/dim/strobe.
Yeah we use them here to check for print errors. The high CRI is nice but unnecessary. What’s good is how smooth the diffusion is! Very good for checking ink adhesion in our films. I love how the LED shape is projected. 😁. I found out about the strobe by accident.
edc
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