If you are using jackett or prowlarr then filter the indexers by language and only select the german ones and try to get into them. Some will let you fill out a form to get an invite
For codecs it is highly dependent on the release group. For 4K it is the only valid option, but for 1080p a lot of groups make their x265 encodes too small and sacrifice quality. Take a look at the group rankings in the trash guides for sonarr and radarr for a general idea if who is the best/worst.
As for Tdarr, you should only really use it for audio and subtitle processing. For one you should not re-encode video so unless you’re starting with remuxes you’re further degrading video that is already degraded. And for two it’s best left to the people who know what settings to tweak for each movie or episode. There is no universal setting that works well for everything so while you might be able to get acceptable quality with automation it’s never going to be great. The best groups already took the time and effort to get it right so you might as well get those and save yourself the time/electricity.
HEVC 10 bit in order to reduce banding for animation, especially during dark scenes. I know H264 Hi10 exists, but it has poor hardware support, so using HEVC 10 bit is the best option (I don’t own a single streaming device that supports HW accelerated Hi10, besides my PC). Also, an added benefit is reduced file size. I find that doing my own encodes is very rarely worth it, but when I do, I use FFmpeg in the CLI and not tdarr.
Hold up. That entire image is 8-bit. It’s a JPEG image. JPEG can’t encode more than 8 bits per channel. Nor can most displays, including mine, display more than 8 bits per channel. And yet the left half of your image exhibits far worse banding than the right half.
The left half looks more like 5 bits per channel rather than 8. You’d see that kind of banding in gradients back in the days of Windows 3.1, when 16-bit color was common. (16-bit color uses 5 bits each for red and blue, and 6 bits for green.)
Then it should be marked as such. It’s highly misleading to anyone who doesn’t know better. Again, you’re demonstrating the difference between 5-bit and 8-bit color, not the difference between 8-bit and 10-bit color.
The purpose of the comment is to demonstrate banding. The only reason I marked it in bits is to show how banding can be reduced in video encodes by increasing the bit depth, not the specifics depths itself, it’s not a technical write-up.
x264 or x265, depends on release and availability. If x265 looks better than x264 then it is x265 for me. In some instances I have caught x264 looking better, although not often.
I have two Hori sticks, the RAP4 (modded) and fighting edge unmodded.
Both work great on pc and playstation. Hori at least had a switch stick, but not sure if any more. It was based on the RAP, which is a fine stick, even out of the box.
If you don’t have budget constraints, ordering a custom could work too, since you could get it to work on the switch and ps. I don’t think many sticks support both out of the box.
If you can leave the switch out, Qanba is real nice. Razer sticks are pretty cool too, very heavy and boxy, but I like that. And Hori is a bit more budget friendly.
The Nacon stick with Sanwa parts seems like a good deal too.
I’ve tried it a couple of times based on all the raving reviews, but couldn’t stand the lack of checkpoints. Died against a boss about 5 times and had to walk all the way back from town was just very annoying and not relaxing to me. I don’t mind dying, eg I love Ori and don’t mind dying in hard section, as long as there are checkpoints.
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