I found this tool www.sidify.de a while ago. They have a paid solution, which you could pirate a crack for on a site of your choice. Maybe not the best solution, but it downloads the Tracks/Playlists/Albums by recording the audio and adding all the metadata.
This. I actually went the opposite route to OP, replaced everything 265 to 264 to avoid playback issues. My content is played on many different devices so 265 simply won’t cut it.
I sometimes stream from my 2014 ultrabook to my TV… never had a problem with x264, but some x265 encodings cut out/freeze/lag during scenes where a lot is happening (motionwise)
For me the math worked out that it was cheaper to get a nuc with quick sync than to pay for the extra storage h264 uses, it’s less than half the bitrate (usually ~2Mbit for 1080 compared to 8+), I have 23TB of content and my Intel nuc power efficiently transcodes to h264 on demand if the device needs it.
One click hosters are pretty popular in Germany, so you will find lots of German stuff hosted one one of these. The most popular ones right now are rapidgator and ddownload. You will need special websites and forums for finding the links, though.
Hehe. I figured it’s alright per the rules. And it’s not my job to censor myself but the mods’ job. Also Lemmy belongs to the people and not some large corporation.
If you are using jackett or prowlarr then filter the indexers by language and only select the german ones and try to get into them. Some will let you fill out a form to get an invite
For codecs it is highly dependent on the release group. For 4K it is the only valid option, but for 1080p a lot of groups make their x265 encodes too small and sacrifice quality. Take a look at the group rankings in the trash guides for sonarr and radarr for a general idea if who is the best/worst.
As for Tdarr, you should only really use it for audio and subtitle processing. For one you should not re-encode video so unless you’re starting with remuxes you’re further degrading video that is already degraded. And for two it’s best left to the people who know what settings to tweak for each movie or episode. There is no universal setting that works well for everything so while you might be able to get acceptable quality with automation it’s never going to be great. The best groups already took the time and effort to get it right so you might as well get those and save yourself the time/electricity.
HEVC 10 bit in order to reduce banding for animation, especially during dark scenes. I know H264 Hi10 exists, but it has poor hardware support, so using HEVC 10 bit is the best option (I don’t own a single streaming device that supports HW accelerated Hi10, besides my PC). Also, an added benefit is reduced file size. I find that doing my own encodes is very rarely worth it, but when I do, I use FFmpeg in the CLI and not tdarr.
Hold up. That entire image is 8-bit. It’s a JPEG image. JPEG can’t encode more than 8 bits per channel. Nor can most displays, including mine, display more than 8 bits per channel. And yet the left half of your image exhibits far worse banding than the right half.
The left half looks more like 5 bits per channel rather than 8. You’d see that kind of banding in gradients back in the days of Windows 3.1, when 16-bit color was common. (16-bit color uses 5 bits each for red and blue, and 6 bits for green.)
Then it should be marked as such. It’s highly misleading to anyone who doesn’t know better. Again, you’re demonstrating the difference between 5-bit and 8-bit color, not the difference between 8-bit and 10-bit color.
The purpose of the comment is to demonstrate banding. The only reason I marked it in bits is to show how banding can be reduced in video encodes by increasing the bit depth, not the specifics depths itself, it’s not a technical write-up.
x264 or x265, depends on release and availability. If x265 looks better than x264 then it is x265 for me. In some instances I have caught x264 looking better, although not often.
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