If you feel like you’ll need more RAM or a bigger SSD then that’s a simple thing to do but this will give you all of the components you need for a solid system at whatever your price point is.
That said, the “Great” range and up will play pretty much anything. You can even play pretty much any game on the “Good” range and up. So if you are looking to save money, I’d say the “Great” range will last you a good 5 years right now at least.
Personally I hated the game the first couple of hours before I discovered the autopilot, because I was dying too often too achieve anything interesting. Then I discovered it, and then actually learned to fly, and since then I just loved the game. Maybe consider if you might be in a similar situation, or if maybe it’s just not your thing!
if like, you aren’t too attached to the look of them, you could save a bunch by using an air cooler instead of an AIO water cooler, they don’t actually perform better than decent air coolers.
Don’t know how many AAA games you plan on playing, and I genuinely no expert, but 90% of the games I play are 3-5+ years old and my Nvidia GeForce RTX 2060 (or is it 2050? I always forget. Lol) works just fine as a GPU.
You’re kidding, right? I wish a bank would be so lenient with me as to let me pay off my interest-free loan with terms of ‘whenever you feel like it, off the money you make as a freelance forager.’
Sub the 7950x3d for a 7800x3d, and swap the GPU for a 4070 or 7800 xt. You can likely swap the MB, but I’ll let someone else speak to that one.
Where I would spend money is with two NVMe drives. A 1TB drive for the OS and a 2TB game drive. You can add a spinning HD for mass storage if needed.
If you really want to save some money, go with an x570 MB and a 5800x3D. But I’d stay with the GPUs from this gen. Downside is you have no room for upgrades down the line.
For reference, I have an x570 MB, 5800x3D, and a 6750xt GPU. I’m not having issues running games.
Definitely agree that 7800x3D is better value for gaming. Depending on the games played and choice of GPU, the 7600 could provide an even better value option. The 4090 is the only offering from Nvidia that makes sort of sense IMO (and only if you want to spend a lot for the best) with 7900 xtx > 7900 > 7800 the better choices in order of higher to lower performance and lower to higher value.
That being said, all the components are way overkill for 60 fps at 1080p. If you are not going to capitalize on the performance with a higher framerate and resolution monitor, there really is not a need for this tier of components at all. A used B550/B450 board and a 7600 could easily drive modern gamed with lower settings at 60fps/1080p at a fraction of the price.
These games came out in very late teenage-hood for me, but the amount of nights piled around the TV with the bros, pounding beers and bongers, and scaring ourselves…oh man the memories. Those games were absolute rippers, Parasite Eve 2 especially (except for that end boss)
So, the trap of modern game setups is that there is a lot of super high powered hardware out there- but unless you’re driving 4K monitors at 120hz+, or striving for super fast 360hz+ refresh rates for competitive gaming, you don’t need any of it. And people often get too caught up in the flashy new latest-and-greatest to recognize what’s a good deal and what’s just showing off.
Define your use case. What’s your desirable budget? What kind of games do you want to play, do you want to do VR, what kind of display do you plan on using. Because while it’s easy to drop $2800+ on hardware these days (like I did), it is still very possible to end up with a $900-1k machine that is super capable at 1440p and can run most all games you throw at it for at least another 5 years. Dpending on what exactly you want to do with it, prioritizing certain areas of hardware over others will pay off.
A steam deck works well enough for most games if you want something handheld but dockable into a full computer. Gives you that sort of console feel without a console ecosystem.
High settings for most modern games jump from game to game. I was able to keep high settings with a 1080 and a Ryzen 7 with 64 gb of RAM. I think 16-32 GB ram should be fine but I am also a game developer so I use extra RAM for debug. Nvidia sent me a 3080 for testing last year and I just installed it.
Not OP, but as a person who wants to switch to Linux but is worried about being able to play the games I like (and doesn’t generally use Steam), is Nvidia bad for Linux gaming? I’ve heard good things about AMD’s Linux compatibility but I have an Nvidia.
I have an Nvidia GPU and I use it with Linux, even with Wayland, but it’s still not quite there yet, and because all the fixes have to come from proprietary Nvidia driver changes, nobody really knows when/if everything will be fixed. AMD has been much better with support and switching to AMD for your next.card will save you a lot of headaches.
Linux fanboys like to hate on Nvidia, but their GPU’s usually work fine on day one and have performance parity with other OS.
What isn’t good is that they don’t support some newer features that work on the open-source drivers from AMD and Intel, namely Wayland. But even that’s constantly getting better and won’t be a problem for long.
Also, the proprietary drivers made some problems a few years ago that resulted in a black screen after the update. But as I said, that’s been years ago and was simple to fix.
Now I’ve talked about those Linux fanboys like myself and do recommend AMD GPU’s over Nvidia. It’s great that they work ootb without having to install drivers, but that’s only for gaming. E.g. machine learning apps like stable diffusion make the AMD driver situation way worse than Nvidia.
Don’t let yourself be discouraged by overly dramatic comments! Try it for yourself and it’ll probably be fine.
Simply going one step down from buying every “halo” product would already do wonders for a significant price/performance increase.
That said, when building a new PC I usually start with the recommendations listed at Logical Increments, which has a neat table sorted by budget. Anything at or above the “Suberb” should give you what you want at 1440p.
I’d also very much recommend a high refresh rate monitor, preferably 1440p, which has either GSYNC or FreeSync with a good variable refresh rate range. It really helps with maintaining a smooth presentation as you aren’t forced to keep your game running at a fixed framerate anymore.
First, you want to play on high/60fps but at what resolution? Paying over 1700$CAD for a RTX4090 GPU seems overkill while a RX6800 or a RX7700/7800 would let you play at 1080p/1440p at high settings at a fraction of the price.
SSD is fine.
PSU could be reduced to 850W.
64GB RAM is overkill for gaming right now but potentially useful in the upcoming years.
Bottom line, you could save here and there and still have a capable AM5 machine.
If you want value for your buck, build yourself an AM4 machine. Yes, AM5 is out now but your rig could still last you many many years with the right AM4 components.
Yeah that changes things a bit. What type of games do you plan on playing? 4K or not, if you’re playing eSports or strategy games, it still will be overkill. My wife’s rig is a 5800X (not 3D), and a GTX 1070, and she plays SIMS 4 and Diablo IV at 4K 60+ FPS.
Another data point: I have a Ryzen 5900x and an RTX 3080. In BG3 I average 80-90 fps with 1% lows over 60fps on a 4k screen with ultra settings and DLSS quality setting.
Agreed with the above, especially need to pay attention to your resolution to figure out GPU needs. To add to this, you would probably be fine with a 7800X3D, unless you really need the extra CPU cores for non-gaming related tasks.
For reference, I have a 5800X3D, 32GB RAM, 970 1TB SSD, and a 6700XT, and I’m playing 60+ FPS on high on most games at 3840x1600. Nowhere near the budget you’re looking at. That being said, AM4 socket is EOL’d, so stick with the Ryzen 7000 series if you want AMD.
The samsung 990 is fine, but a bit overpriced. Something like this sabernt is also a high quailty gen 4 drive, and running under $100 for 2TB with a heatsink.
Id actually recommend going for the 4TB of that same model for $210. By far the most bang for your buck.
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